Are We There Yet? I’m Itchy

Sadly it was time to be on our way and kiss Kho Tao goodbye. But we were looking forward to the next adventure in Indonesia. Little did we know it was going to be quite the adventure getting there. It only too about 72 hours. It started with a ferry then a truck then a taxi then a train then a bus then another bus then a plane then a taxi and finally two bemos. Throw in a couple of sketchy hostels, greedy drivers trying to rip us off, a million jumbo rats and a rash all over my body and you’ve got the longest 72 hours of my life.

Written on a walkway in Ubud.

The original plan was to land in Bali and catch a bus over to another island in Indonesia, Java. But things do not always go as planned. Upon arriving at the bus station our taxi driver negotiated a pretty fair price for the 14 hour journey that was to leave in thirty minutes. Great! We freshened up in a nasty bathroom and borded the bus. I had an odd feeling. The conductor seemed skeezy, the bus was cramped (but not unusual) and the locals seemed agitated. Thirty minutes went by and then another sixty and we still had not pulled out. I had a bad feeling. Something inside was yelling at me to get off this bus. Oddly Laura had the same feeling. The number one rule of travel- ALWAYS trust your instincts. So we got off knowing we were probably going to lose our money. While “negogations” took place between us and the conductor, I stood in front of the bus so it could not leave and Laura scrambled to get our luggage off. Finally after another bus company came over and scolded the conductor for cheating us we received half of the fare back. We will take it. No Java for us, we are staying on Bali.

Our hotel in Ubud, Bali. It was AMAZING!!!

That night when we found a place to stay, I started noticing itchy bumps on my back and arms. I just assumed it was bug bites from one of the many transport vehicles. This is not uncommon. In the morning I discovered it was definatly not bug bites. The rash had spread and I wanted to claw my skin off. But onward we went to Ubud. During the short trip I literally had to clinch my fist to keep from scratching. This sounds dramatic but I was miserable.

We found a hotel, grabbed lunch, and then I was off to the local clinic. Turns out it was just an allergic reaction. No worries. Four prescriptions later and I was feeling much better.

In the rice fields.

Our time in Ubud was simply spent exploring the town and the rice fields surrounding it. The airs holds such a peaceful silence even though traffic can get chaotic. The smell of inscence hangs all around. And brightly colored flowers and fabrics can be found everywhere from the temples to the streets. It is such a beautiful place where you can find relaxation and rejuvination. It is no wonder Ubud is described and depicted as a small piece heaven and paradise.

Flowers that had been tossed into the street.


Bright fabric in the market.


A local woman in the rice patties.


Rice patties outside of Ubud.

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The Queen’s Cabaret and The Hardest Day

The first night in Ko Tao

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. There is probably not a better opening line to a story than that. And it is perfect for my adventure in Ko Tao, Thailand.

The Best: After spending about two weeks on my own it was time to meet back up with my travel buddy, Laura. YEAH!! I realized that although I enjoyed being on my own. It is just a bit more fun when you have someone to share in all those best and worst moments of your journey. We had a happy reunion followed by plans going all wrong but in the end we were standing in island paradise off the eastern coast of Thailand. Does life get much better? Now Ko Tao is one of the more popular tourist places but when we arrived it was practically empty. Finding a little bungalow with a hammock and a view was a piece of cake and quite cheap. The days were filled by relaxing, scuba diving (only me), reading, and exploring the island. The nights were taken up by movies on the beach and the several trips to the Queen’s Cabaret.

I could not agree more

Having earned my scuba diving license about a year ago I thought it was time to put it to good use. I took a quick refresher course and I was ready to go. With the tank strapped on my back I plunged into the clear blue depths of some of the most beautiful and diverse coral reefs in the world. I saw a family of nemo fish with a mom, dad and baby, a sea turtle, many blue spotted manta rays, and even an eel. Not to mention the hundreds of brightly colored fish. There was a sea snake somewhere around but thank heavens I did not see it. You see I have this small fear of snakes and if I had come face to face with one in the water, well lets just say I would have peed my wetsuit. I completed four dives in all and loved every minute of it.

The Queen's Cabaret

The other great activity on the island is a little bit of a kept secret that most do not know about. It was Laura who first discovered the little gem of the Queen’s Cabaret. How to describe it? Think drag queens meet vegas show girl performance. It was great!! All of these beautiful “women” dancing and singing to anything from Lady Gaga and Celine Dion to Whitney Houston and Brittney Spears. We ended up being repeat customers and sat in the front row every night. The best part- totally free. We even were able to get our picture taken with them.

One of many stunning moments

On to The Worst: It all started with a map, a snorkel, and not nearly enough time or water. We had heard that some of the best snorkeling was in a bay on the other side of the island. So one afternoon after having glanced at a map which showed a small winding road through the valley, we set off for a leisurely walk to the other side of Ko Tao. Little did we know that it was going to be the hardest day of the entire trip. First the map was just a bit off, instead of going around the mountain the path went to the highest peak on the island. It was a slow steady climb to the top but it ended up being a spectacular view. To go snorkeling we had to go all the way back down to sea level. Well there was no messing around with all of that gradual slope and switch backs. We went down and by down I mean straight down where if we had misstepped we would have been at the sea much quicker.

View from the top. I made it!

By this point we had used most of our water and all of our energy but no worries we had a plan. We thought, after snorkeling we would simply catch a boat taxi back to the other side. Ha ha ha ha HA! Since everything in the bay was closed for renovations there was no boat taxis. I guess we will just have to borrow a workers cell phone and get someone to come get us….NOPE! No cell service. Walk around the coast line you say? Sheer jagged rock the whole way. Perspective time: it’s 4:30 in the afternoon with only about an hour and a half of daylight left, we have half a bottle of water each, and we have just figured out we have to go back over the mountain that rises 1200ft. in less than a half mile. SERIOUSLY?!?!?! I did not even get in the water. At the time I’m thinking there is no way I’m going to be able to do this. But somehow from somewhere we summoned the strength to start climbing. I put my head down and put one foot in front of the other. If I looked up to where I had to go I would not have made it. Knowing that there was water at the top was also a great motivator. Did I mention it’s about 96 degrees and probably as much humidity? We finally arrived back at the top looking like drowned rats.

After making it back to the top

The walk down gave us some time to reflect on the day and the only thing that we could say was “And the think we wanted to climb Mt. Everest.” We laughed the whole way down.

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Update: I’m Home

Well I’m back stateside and at home for a little while. My around-the-world adventure was nothing short of amazing and I am so thankful I was able to do what I love. It went by so fast and I cannot believe I am already back home. It has been a bit weird getting adjusted again, driving, time change, running into people I know, etc. I am however sooo excited about Thanksgiving coming up tomorrow. In leu of this fine festive holiday here are a few things I am thankful for this year:

  • My wonderful parents who have accepted the crazy unconventional path I have taken in life and their support and willingness to allow me to move back in. I am so very fortunate.
  • For the knowledge that happiness depends on ones self and the ability and courage to be happy
  • For clean water to drink
  • For someone to come home to, actually alot of someones to come home to
  • To live in a world with washers and dryers (I say this every time I leave the country and come back home, they really are amazing).
  • And finally……MEXICAN FOOD!!!

With coming home I have already started getting the questions. The ones that go like this: what are you going to do? are you going to get a job? are you moving? where are you moving? are you going to settle down? are you going to travel more? And the truth is I do not know the answers. I’m not going to lie, it is a bit overwhelming to have to try and figure out your whole life especially when you have not even recovered from jet lag yet. My plan for now is to get a part time job that will pay the bills through the holidays and then go from there. I want a job in interior design, but the market is still crap so who knows. I would like to move out of Tennessee and the South but I do not know where. And the way I see it there is always travel in my future.

No worries to my travel blog followers, I still plan on writing about the rest of my adventures, it just got a bit difficult to get internet towards the end of my journey. The rest of the story is coming soon.

Ciao

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Poor Vision in Phuket

I hardly saw any of this beautiful and the largest island of Thailand. Why you ask? Because I think it is my mission as a traveler to check out the local eye doctors of every region I visit. I have on a previous trip checked out the eye care in Nairobi, Kenya. Now it’s time to see how they do it Phuket, Thailand.  

For the past few days I had been having a lot of trouble with my eyes. I just thought my contacts were old and needed to be changed. Knowing that I am prone to have eye problems any time I’m out of the states, I had been wearing my glasses to let my eyes rest. Little did I know that my glasses were on their last leg and at the most inopportune moment they chose to die. The ear piece broke off and was unrepairable. This means the contacts had to go back in. Ouch!

Here they are. What do you think?

After having my eyes kill me and a bit of convincing from my parents, I decided it was time to find an eye doctor and get my glasses replaced. I only have two eyes and those are very hard to replace I hear. So I spent pretty much the whole day looking for a doctor and a new pair of glasses. I am so picky when it comes to these sort of things. But I found a very nice, knowledgeable guy who did a full eye exam and fitted me for new glasses. It’s a very good thing I did because come to find out, I had two ulcers on my eye and the contacts were only making them worse. My glasses were ready after about an hour and I was relieved I was going to be able to see again. 

So after visiting one of the most beautiful tropical islands in Thailand, the only places I saw were the eye exam room and the glasses showroom and all I have to show is a beautiful new pair of glasses.      

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Almost Not Island Paradise

The typical longtail boat picture, yeah that's where I was

The blissfulness of traveling solo came to a screeching halt after I arrived on the island of Ko Phi Phi. I caught the morning ferry from Ao Nang and arrived on Ko Phi Phi about two hours later. On first impression it was pretty but not what I had expected at all. It was complete touristville. And yes I know I’m part of the tourist crowd, although I prefer to call myself a traveler. 

First things first. I had to find a place to stay. Let me say it is so much more difficult on your own than if there are two people. All I wanted and didn’t think it too much to ask was a basic bungalow with a hammock and a view of the water. Well apparently that just does not exist here, at least in my price range. I looked for over an hour in the hot sun while carrying all of my things. The only thing I could find was a dungeon-like room with no view in the back alleys of touristville. I became so frustrated and at one point just sat down on the sidewalk and contemplated catching the afternoon ferry out of there. But after a cold coke and a self pep talk, I got back up and headed for the far end of the beach just on instinct. By some miracle and a stroke of good luck, I came across a place called Sunflower. It was a guest house posing as a giant ship wreck right on the beach. It was so quite and had a hippie like vibe. I had passed quite a bit of construction on the way which is why the place was so devoid of people and noise. No one came down this far. I am extremely glad I did. They not only had rooms available in my price range, it came with a hammock (the first I’d seen) and a beach front view. PERFECT!!! I later discovered it came with free wifi, a rarity even in the high end hotels here. Things were finally starting to be good here on the island of Phi Phi.

My view I searched for

 
So instead of bailing, I spent four glorious days on one of the most notoriously beautiful islands in the world. Some of you may know it from the movie The Beach with Leonardo DiCaprio, which was filmed here. And I must say the pictures do not begin to do it justice. My days were spent lounging in my hammock, lying under an umbrella on the white sand, and an occasional hike up the mountains. This place is beautiful not because of the pristine beaches and clear water, but for the amazing cliffs that rise straight out of the water. Most of the archipelago is uninhabitable because of the vertical terrain. But the view from the cliffs is breathtaking if you can get there.

The bay at low tide

The one thing that was hindering here was my budget. I’m thinking next time I will travel in five star luxury. Hahaha. Then I will wake up from that dream. But in all seriousness, if a five star vacation is what you seek, than Ko Phi Phi is the perfect place. For just $75 a night the possibilities are endless and high class. Think about it, for a family or group of four that is very good for an island getaway to paradise. 

A sign posted near my guesthouse

In the end I am thrilled that I stayed on the island and gave it one more chance. Even among all the chaos I was able to find a little retreat and a piece of paradise of my own It just took a bit of perseverance and a lot of luck.

View from the top of Ko Phi Phi

                  

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On My Own in Ao Nang

It was time to go our separate ways for awhile. Laura headed north to the Burmese border and I headed south to the Thai islands. We said our goodbyes in Bangkok and I boarded a train with a sleeper berth. It was so nice to actually have a bed during transit. When I awoke, it was only a short bus ride to the coast town of Ao Nang. 

It was the first time ever I have travelled completely alone for more than a day or two. Transit was simple. It’s not to difficult to wave down a sangthaw (open pickup with benches). The next thing I had to do was find a place to stay. The first place I looked at started at $35 and immediately came down to $20 a night. It was a very nice place but I knew I could find somewhere a little less expensive and closer to the beach. The second place was as far as I went. For $10 a night I was steps away from the beach, had air conditioning, hot water, a fridge, and tv with movie channels. I was living in high style. And I think I was the only person staying in the entire hotel. This is why it pays to travel during the region’s low season. Everyone is begging for business and the prices are ridiculously cheap. Yes you might have to put up with a bit of rain but the trade off is so worth it.   

Self portrait, I really was there!

After unpacking and purchasing a beach bag and a sun hat (these items were hard to pack and I knew I would be able to find them cheap), I set out for the beach. It was heaven. There was no one on the sand or in the water. I had the whole place to myself. I’m not talking a short beach but probably a stretch a little over a mile long. The plan was to only stay a night or two and move on, but I decided right then I was staying a bit longer. I found a rock cliff that overlooked the beach and provided a bit of shade and settled in. 

One of many great sunsets

For the next four days, I read a great book, caught up on some writing, swam in the crystal clear turquoise water,watched extraordinary sunsets and napped on the sand. I loved it. The  mornings were spent either sleeping in or going for a sunrise run. At night I would get dinner from the local food stalls for take away and find a place on the beach to eat. There was always some kind of live music coming from one of the restaurants. It was perfect and just what I needed. I know that sounds weird but traveling can be tiring and stressful sometimes (and I do not expect you to feel the least bit sorry for me, I’m just explaining).   

I have determined and have always really known, that despite my extremely fair skin, I am made for beach life. I just require a little extra sun care. It really fits my laid back lifestyle and personality. One day I will reside at the beach. One day….       

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I’m About Templed Out

On my bike

Temples are to southeast Asia as Catholic churches are to Europe. They are everywhere and after awhile they all start to look the same. Don’t get me wrong they are beautiful, I just think perhaps I have done too many in such a short while. However there are just a few more to see before I head to the beach for awhile and they came as a sweet surprise. They were not like all the others I had seen. 

13th century Wat

Let me back up. I traveled to Sukhothai, the oldest and first capital of Thailand. It was a beautiful day and Laura and I rented bicycles to explore the ruins. It was great. There was hardly anyone around, and we practically had the place to ourselves. The grounds resembled Palm Springs mixed with Southern Georgia and large ponds were scattered throughout. In the middle of this beautiful landscape where thousand year old ruins. I would be riding along a tree lined road and out of nowhere a broken temple would appear. The structures must have been amazing in their day, but all that’s left are the Buddha statues and remittance of what use to be magnificent. Every now and then I would come across a place that still has a bit of paint on it or a beautiful carving that has not completely turned to rubble. They stand in stark contrast to the temples that are in use today and the ones I have been visiting a lot lately. I suppose it is the ancient unknown that fascinates me and why I love the aged, impressive remnants from days past.   

Buddha still remaining intact


It was an amazing place to explore. I am glad that I decided to add one more temple site to my list. I was very reluctant at first, but in the end it was beautiful and memorable and I would have missed out and shorted myself if I had skipped it.

Pond view of Sukhothai


Painted Nail


The Deva Statue

Stack of Ruin Rocks


Elephants that have survived centuries

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Oh My I Love Chiang Mai

Green Crystal Buddha

One of my favorite places I have been so far is Chiang Mai, Thailand. There is a little bit of everything, plenty to see, lots to eat, and just enough from home to be comfortable. I ended up staying in the old city. It is about a square mile with and old wall and moat around it. One day I took a walk around it. It was beautiful. You could see the old gates that still stood in place and imagine how magnificent it must have been hundreds of years ago. 

For being a big destination of course there were tours by the hundreds that you could take including a trip to an elephant sanctuary, a snake farm (no way!), and a play date with tigers. After long consideration I decided not to go see the elephants. I don’t think I could bear having to hear the heartbreaking stories of how they were mistreated and about the ones they couldn’t save. The other two were not even an option. So instead I spent my time walking through the city and visiting many of the beautiful wats. One day, Laura and I went to holiest wat in Thailand, Wat Suan Dok. It was on high on a mountain (I must say Asians like to put important things way up high) with beautiful views of the entire city. 

Stairs to Wat Suan Dok....Seriously!?!

In the jade factory, making a Buddha statue

Jade is a major enterprise being that Chiang Mai is so close to some of the largest mines of it in the world. At the top of the mountain, I took a tour of the jade factory then looked at a lot of jewelry and statues that I could not afford. I was able to find a small pendant with two different colors of green jade in my price range, so I got. Why not? 

Now speaking of shopping, I am a champ. So being in Chiang Mai on a budget was extremely tough. On Saturday and Sunday they have walking street markets and every other night of the week a huge night market. How fortunate was I to be there over the weekend? Mother nature did try to thwart my shopping by having it down pour every night. And I’m not talking just a little rain I’m talking the skies opened up on me. But no worries I will not and did not give up. I was able to do a considerable amount of damage to my budget. Looks like I’ll be eating even cheaper for awhile. Totally worth it though. I then mailed it all home via the surface mail. I should receive it in two to four months. 

Waiting out the rain in the walking market


Thanks to Laura and her tweeting skills, we were able to meet up with several expats that live there. First I met a family of three Jack, Aye, and Emma who is eight. Emma and I got along great since she loves to draw and play Uno. Then there is Bessie and Kyle who have been traveling for the last two years since they were married. They love board games and even introduced me to a new one- Settlers of Catan (Steele family take note). We had a game night and it was so much fun. And last we met Daniel, an amazing photographer and Lindsey, who has the best southern accent and reminded me so much of home. They are all such amazing people. I can definitely see why they have chosen Chiang Mai as their home for now. In fact it’s the only city so far that I could see myself staying in for awhile. But alas I must move on. I really do love it here and probably will be coming back someday. 

Candles for offering in Wat Suan Dok

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Meditating Marshmallow

One of the main things I wanted to do while in southeast Asia was to go on a meditation retreat. Thanks to monkchat.net I was able to do it on the cheap and for just a short while. Considering I have only meditated during yoga, I was not sure how I would like it. I learned two things on this retreat. One, even though I respect Buddhism it is not for me. Two, it turns out I really enjoy meditating. 

Let’s start from the beginning. I signed up for a two day meditation retreat through a university in Chiang Mai, Thailand. I had really no idea what to expect. Upon arrival, there was a short presentation on what the background and goal of Buddhist meditation is. About fifteen people from all over the world were signed up and thankfully most were new to meditation. It was not just me. After the monk finished his session on the basics, we pilled into the back of a covered truck to head to the meditation center. 

Upon arrival there are several rules that must be followed. First is the dress code, only lose nonsee-through white clothing. No worries. Since I did not have anything white with me, (that’s just crazy when backpacking) I was able to purchase a set. Phew! Once putting the lovely all white outfit on, I officially looked like a giant marshmallow. But I was not the only one. All together we resembled a bag of marshmallows or the patients at a looney bin, whichever you prefer.   

Our outfits


The next rule was silence. For the next 24 hours there was to be absolutely no talking or communicating unless addressing the monk with a question about meditation. Now I’m not what you would call a big talker by any means. The first night was easy not to talk. Laura was my roomie so we knew each others routine. None of that awkwardness of trying to figure out who needs to shower or when to turn out the lights. But for some reason, the next morning of not talking drove me crazy. I understand the point of silence- focusing entirely on yourself, it was just very weird sitting down to a meal and staring at the person across the table with nothing to say. And here I thought this was going to be the easy part of the retreat. I find it so strange how hard of a time I had with it. I suppose it was because everyone was quite, not just me. I’m use to listening a lot and there was nothing to listen to.

Other rules included chanting before meals, no reading (this interferes with the focus on yourself and brings in outside thoughts), same sex roommates even if you are married, and attending the sessions when the gong sounded.

On to the meditation. First let me say there are many different forms of meditation and that we were led in the practice of buddhism. However that does not mean you have to convert or even change your religious views to meditate. 

In the five sessions with the monk, we worked through three different postures of meditation, sitting, walking and lying. For me the sitting was easy. I did not find it uncomfortable or even painful to remain in the same cross-legged position for fifteen minutes or more. I also found it natural to stop the flood of thoughts  The position is a relaxed one where no pressure or tension is on any part of the body  We were told that if we experience pain or uncomfortableness to push through it. Not to give in and move but to remain as we are. “Go to the end of the pain” the monk said. Eventually you would not feel pain any longer. I imagine this posture can be very painful for some. The next position is walking. I defiantly did not like this one, for no other reason than that my eyes had to be open. This allowed me to see what was going on around me and think about that. It was suppose to focus on the movement but I just never got it. And it is natural for one to be easier than another. The last pose, lying, was a cinch. I was use to this one from my years of yoga. Now some did find this one too comfortable and actually fall asleep meditating. To each his own I suppose.

As the time progressed so did the length of meditation. We started with fifteen minutes and then worked our way up to thirty. For me the night session was fun. But the morning session was extremely difficult. This could have something to do with the fact that the gong rang at 5am to summon us to the meditation hall. Now all who know me, knows I am not a morning person, especially before the sun is up. But it was not the tiredness that kept pulling me out of focus. I do not know why I was unable to meditate. Maybe it was too much meditation too fast. For a newbie, it was quite a bit in a short amount of time.  

Now there was one session that we were permitted to talk. In a circle, we sat around the monk and chatted about meditation, it’s difficulties, purpose, and different techniques. We were also allowed to ask about Buddhism and his practice. It was an interesting talk and I learned a lot. The most basic way I can describe Buddhism is goodness. Think good, do good, be good. There of course is much more to it and I cannot say I understood everything or even agreed with it. But for me, it was interesting to see where others come from on the religion front.  

In general and the main thing I took away with me is that it is just quieting your mind for awhile. Letting go of all the crazy thoughts that swirl around your head every moment. Now let me tell you this sounds much easier than it actually is. You think constantly, it is our nature. Even when you think you are not thinking you are. When you finally reach that moment of pure quiet, you realize that your mind never stops, never rests. Meditation can also be focusing on something specific such as breathing or a sound. I was fortunate enough that it rained during most of the sessions so i had that to focus on. It was a great form of relaxation.  

For the monk, meditation is a tool to reach enlightenment. For me that will never happen, it’s not my goal. But I can work towards relaxation and rejuvenation through meditation. And I encourage others to try any form of meditation if for no other reason then to take a few moments to focus only on you and push the rest of the world away for a bit.  

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Picks of Pics: Plain of Jars

In Laos there is a place that has stumped archeologist for years. There are groups of huge stone jars all over the place and they cannot figure out what they were used for. Some say it was to store food and Lao Lao (whiskey) while others say they were for burial rituals. They may never know because there is no way of carbon dating them. It’s pretty cool!

Site one of the Palin of Jars


The biggest of them all, King Jar

From here I have taken the liberty to name them myself.

Busted Jar

Lid Jar


Lonely Jar

Heart Jar


Leaning Jar


Jungle Jar

Tree Jar


Three jars

Watch where you step UXO still around

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