Since I made it through the bus ride, I decided it was time to relax for awhile and recover. What better place to then an island only accessible by boat on the Mekong River and no cars. Sounds good to me.
Luck was on our side after we disembarked the horrible bus. There was a boat that just happen to be going to Muong Ngoi Neua. Perfect! Laura and I somehow were the only people on this long boat down the river. The view was spectacular and it was all ours for a few hours.children played along the river bank and men were hauling in the days catch just as we docked at the port. Only a few steps onto the island and we were greeted by bungalows with hammocks. Of course that is where we had to check into. It overlooked the river and the best part was that it cost $3 a night (that’s total between Laura and I). I knew from that moment we were going to stay awhile. Now there is one more thing the island does not have and that would be electricity. Generators run from 6:30pm to 9:45pm just for the important things. And no, the Internet is not an important thing. Oh well.As I walked down the street that first night the smells and sounds took me right back to Africa. The small town had one street running through with small shops perched on either side. Children and dogs ran up and down playing while mom and dad talked to the neighbors. Everyone knew everyone and you could feel it in the air. You could smell the meals being prepared over the fire just as the generators started their nightly buzz. Given that the island is small, there is not a whole lot to do. The first day we decided to go trekking up to a cave and a local village. No one in town that claimed to be a guide would take us though because of the mud. No worries we can go on our own. Now the mud was pretty deep in some places but nothing we could not handle. We were able to wash it off in the river we had to wade across. It was beautiful. All around us there were rice patties and the mountains that rose out of nowhere. We found the cave but never the village.
Cool side note: The cave was used as a home and shelter from the bombs for 12 years during the Secret War. Could you live in a small cave that long?
We made lots of friends on the island. All were locals. The first was a guy named Saung who owned a tour company. We got to chatting and found out he was not leading tours right now because he was building a boat. He then asked if we wanted to help paint it. Sure. Why not? We had nothing else to do the next day. When we arrived promptly at 9am we were sent back to change cloths. We were no longer painting but going to attend a celebration of marriage and birth. Since it was Saung’s uncle, he invited us to join in. Now the Laos people know how to celebrate. The men had started on the Lao Lao (local whiskey) at about 6 that morning. We joined at 10am. Now it is extremely rude to refuse a glass when offered so I think Laura and I had about 7 glasses and boy was it strong. We did however make them pour half back into the bottle. Cannot have too much. We had to stop around noon but the party kept going. There was so much food and music. And we were the only outsiders invited. It was so much fun.
Our other friend we made was a lady named Nang. She owns a restaurant with the best food in town. Every night we would just rave how good everything was. We kept going back for breakfast lunch and dinner. Her English was really good and she only learned it from the tourist. We would just sit and talk to her forever. One day we asked her about the monk alms in the morning and she invited us to join her the next day and she would show us. We arrived at 5:30am ready to go. But the monks slept in until about 6:30. Nang had prepared rice for us to give the monks and found a scarf for us to wear. It was interesting to be able to participate in this ritual with someone who does it every day. Most people experience this in Luang Prabang where there are hundreds of monks. There were only 6 on the island. She even made her husband ties photos for us.
We spent most days reading, writing, hanging in the hammock or chatting with locals. After five days it was time to head on though. I really did not want to but knew we had to continue on our way. It was a perfect little relaxing retreat, just how I like it.